April 8, 2024—Eclipse Day, Lampasas, Texas

There’s a solid wall of clouds outside my Airstream window at 7:30am. By eight the sky is still grey, but  growing patchy, and lumpy. Something about the smell in the air tells me it will all burn off and we’ll have a bluebird sky before long.

Sure enough, by 9:00am, Simpsons clouds have formed, the sky is bright azure, and the sun is glinting off the aluminum trailers. I no longer look at the weather report—today will be what it will be, and it looks like a beauty.

By 10:00am, clouds have rolled in again. And then they’re gone. And then they’re back. By noon no one is talking about it, like a no-hitter is underway. The moon takes a little bite of the sun, right on time, at 12:18pm. First contact; TSE2024 has begun.

At 1:00pm—35 or so minutes until totality—the partial phase is at the halfway mark. Clouds quickly come and go.

T-minus twenty minutes. “What do you think?” muses a guy in our little chaser group, clustered together behind a nice scope and camera setup. “80/20?” 

“60/40,” says the guy with the scope.

Clouds are building and getting thicker; the time has come to look at the random blue “holes” in the glowering grey sky. Which patch will work in our favor, and allow us to view totality? Which way is the wind blowing? The “taco” banner by the food truck acts as a wind sock.

Other phenomena will be impacted by cloud cover today as well—no approaching moon’s shadow, no shadow bands, limited pinhole projections. The air is cooling, but it’s likely the cloud cover and not the partially eclipsed sun. Yet. 

Fifteen minutes to totality. I evaluate the sky. “We’re going to get a nice four-minute hole,” I think to myself. “I can feel it.”

Seven minutes to totality. A great big beautiful slice of blue Texas sky is positioned for success, wafting at the right pace and trajectory toward the sun.

Five minutes to totality. The sun is a fingernail clipping and that weird pearlescent eclipse light has arrived. “It’s like hail weather,” someone observes. That blue patch I’ve wagered all-in on is closing down, growing smaller. 

We’re not gonna make it. 

Two minutes until totality. It’s suddenly sweater weather, and I’m very chilly, wearing shorts. Hang on—another patch of blue is developing. We WILL see it! Viewers watch and wait, without a word.

No drones were allowed earlier, but now two are flying high in the air, trying for an unobscured shot. Someone nearby has a helpful spoken phenomena coach on speaker: “Diamond ring in one second…remove eclipse glasses now!” The diamond ring struggles to be seen as a thick grey cloud engulfs the sun; everyone makes the “whoah…uuhhhhh…OOOHHHH…ARRRRG!” sound as the shocking totality—just a peek—is visible. Then she’s gone.

Clouds have now stopped moving, determined to obscure our totality. Viewers scream from a faraway field; they must be getting a nice look. I swivel my head to observe the 360degree “sunset”. I sit quietly, anxiously, sadly.

We caught the briefest glimpse of totality again just after maximum (did I see a large red prominence at 5 o’clock?) The voice on speaker says “Fourth contact in three, two…one.” And then it was over.

“That was cool, though!” someone says. Another shouts, “Can we do it again next weekend?”

Fifteen minutes later that stinker Sol—still partially eclipsed, of course—reemerges, shining bright. Great timing, thanks a lot I think. Drained and hangry, I retreated to my Airstream and passed a man along the way. He smiled, and I said, “Well, I guess we try again some other time!” He looked puzzled. “What do you mean?” he said. “We saw it good! In Austin, they had nothin’!” 

Surprisingly, other people I spoke to expressed no disappointment whatsoever. “Wasn’t that cool?” they cried. “It was awesome!”

I was confused.

At happy hour, a table of new friends waved me over. How are you doing? they said. Oh, says I. Okay.

“Just okay? Why?”

I truly didn’t know what to say. “Because…the eclipse? The clouds?” I made a thumbs-down gesture.

“What? Oh, it was incredible!” They chimed in together. “We were so lucky to get that little glimpse, that was enough!” “That sky was so amazing!”

“For me, it was the sky,” said a man. “That sky, that darkness…it almost made me cry.”

I felt humbled, and suddenly embarrassed that I brought my spoiled ungrateful Eeyore attitude over to poop on their party.

I finally realized something important, that I hope I’ll pack in my bags for next time.

There’s more to an eclipse, much more. I was so attached to seeing the corona I couldn’t see anything else. 

I didn’t set an intention for the day, and never found my feet.

I should have been sketching. I should have been breathing.

I should have been valuing the glory of that great moment of oneness, instead of grasping. Instead of wishing it wasn’t.

TSE 2024 was a thing of exquisite beauty. And I missed it.

Lampasas, Texas, one day until TSE 2024

It’s a sea of silver at the Texas Legato Winery in Lampasas. Spirits are high; just look at that wispy sky, on a day that was not too long ago expected to be burdened by heavy clouds and rain.

Attending Airstreamers at the “Four Corners Unit” rally didn’t want to jinx it but some couldn’t help pointing up at that earlier blue patch, and wishing there were a way to wedge it open.

I heard they prayed for clear skies at church service this morning.

Music, barbecue, ice cream, and lots and lots of wine make up the days until totality—tomorrow, inshallah—at 1:37pm.

Johnson City Respite

April 5, 2024. Quiet time at Roadrunner RV Park. Though I’m moving north from here, the area around Johnson City (birthplace of LBJ, and not a coincidence that the town is named “Johnson”) will be prime viewing on Monday, enjoying (again, weather permitting) four minutes of totality. I love the “viewing party” sign that foretells of some kind of double diamond ring annular. 

Scrolling online has been rich. Conspiracy theories are gaining steam and biblical nutjobs are co-opting the upcoming eclipse event. A massive earthquake at the New Madrid fault line is among the dangers we should be aware of. (Just to be clear: eclipses do not initiate earthquakes.)

I thought the Krispy Kreme Total Solar Eclipse Doughnut was an April fool’s joke, but nope: the adorable creation represents how the sun, Earth, and moon will interact during an eclipse and requires an original glazed donut dipped in black chocolate icing, Oreo buttercream, and an Oreo cookie all stacked into one sugar bomb, or as they put it, “a sweet treat that will totally eclipse your taste buds!”

In other fast food news, Burger King is offering BOGO Whoppers on Monday—less creative, but I appreciate the gesture.

San Antonio, Texas, April 2

Longtime chasers in the USA have held the total solar eclipse experience close to our hearts for decades. Like members of a secret, nerdy travel club, we’ve invested considerable time and treasure to stand, in awe, in the shadow. And that all changed for the better in 2017, when totality swept across the country for the first time since 1979 (and that day was mostly clouded out anyway). Americans could finally see a TSE on their home soil, requiring no passport and limited dollars.

Now, seven years later, TSE 2024 is garnering even more excitement and ramped-up coverage. True, the fact that the eclipse affects more populated areas is a factor, but I think it’s because America painfully learned the difference between a 99.9% partial and a total solar eclipse the hard way, after the fact, on August 22, 2017.

I’m watching the news coverage and the “how to use your eclipse glasses” and the “what to do with a kitchen colander” segments on morning shows with fondness not unlike what I imagine parents feel on Christmas morning as their kids unwrap their Red Ryder BB guns.

Soon, weather permitting, more than 30 million Americans will watch what was once an exclusive show behind a velvet rope—and I couldn’t be happier for them. 

Powerchaser Kate Russo (follow her on the socials) recently shared an article from Scientific American titled “Eclipse Psychology: When the Sun and Moon Align, So Do We—How a total solar eclipse creates connection, unity and caring among the people watching”. This is true, and one of the most overlooked of the phenomena.

For a short while, on eclipse day, everyone in the path is as one, doing the one thing. Our differences recede. All might experience that vague primal dread as our lifegiving sun slowly disappears. All eyes look up at that impossibly black hole in the sky. All sense a little-bit-giddy relief, and sometimes respond with involuntary joyful tears, when the second diamond ring promises that all will return to normal. The eclipse unifies and equalizes, reducing us to our most basic, shared designation: Earthlings.

April Fools Day, San Antonio, Texas

On an eclipse journey I always feel relief when I’m within the path of totality, however far from the centerline that is, and whether or not it’s my final viewing destination. San Antonio has one boot in the umbra; if all else fails, I’ll see the gosh-darn eclipse from here.

Local weather news teams are delivering next week’s bad forecast as gently as possible. “Rain and clouds are predicted for Monday, but we’ll see what we can do!” cracks the Fox meteorologist. He’s not wrong, actually; eclipse day weather is literally unpredictable. The temp drop as the partial phase progresses creates strange weather, drawing or disbursing clouds, and sometimes causes conditions to improve (or worsen). Things could change in the coming week, as well. It’s isn’t time to lose hope—nor is it time to get hopes up.

City planners in the Lone Star State aren’t getting caught with their pants down this year, that’s for sure. Residents are urged to plan ahead, stock up on cash, groceries and gas, and panic in general. Warnings of highway gridlock, limited supplies, and disrupted cell phone and internet service are everywhere, and even truckers are disallowed from traveling in 83 Texas counties on Monday.

Easter Sunday 2024, Sonora, Texas

One week-plus until eclipse day; no traffic on 10 East, and a few folks I meet are still saying “what eclipse?” despite the growing media buzz. 

Sensational severe weather reports this week (“rotating supercells” the weathercasters like to say), and projected models hint at very ungood weather on April 8. I push on…after fifty days on the road I’m anxious to dock at the planned viewing site at a winery in Lampasas, no matter the weather.

Shoutout to whoever’s job it is at TxDOT to program the electronic reader boards along the highway in Texas. Today they say, “Every bunny drive egg-cellent and hippity hop safely down the road”.

Somewhere in Texas, USA — March, 2024

For more than thirty years I’ve been chasing totality. I’ve spent thousands of dollars (I don’t have kids that need orthodontia and college tuitions). I’ve crisscrossed the globe seven times. (TSE2017 was in my home state of Oregon; I could have walked to the umbra). TSE 2024–The Second Great American Eclipse–will be my ninth attempt at viewing our blacked-out sun.

I had to look this number up.

The aspect of the Paul Gauguin 2019 attempt I disliked the most wasn’t the shut out; it was the asterisk that now complicates my chaser story. No longer can I say just the number of eclipses I’ve seen, it has to be “well, I’ve traveled to eight but I’ve seen seven totalities and I’m not counting the ’92 annular.”

In short, I’m 7 for 8. Fingers crossed for clear skies on April 8, 2024—the other “once in a lifetime” eclipse.

The journey to my chosen site (Lampasas, Texas, to celebrate or cry with other Airstreamers) has entailed a long and wild road trip in my Interstate van. I pulled over for roadside oddities and tiki bars through California, Arizona, and New Mexico to reach the Texas border at El Paso. From there, on to Marfa, the famed art community in West Texas. Next stop: Sonora. (Texas, not Mexico. That would be a grave navigation error.)

Solar eclipse globe

Just received my geektastic eclipse globe! It illustrates the path of every solar eclipse during the twentyfirst century—from 2001 to 2100—including 68 TSEs and seven annulars.

“This globe is ideal because the distortions inherent in any flat map of Earth are eliminated,” states the text at Great American Eclipse, where you can order one. “Moreover, a globe accurately represents the true areal extent of totality’s path across Earth’s surface. The base map gives the physiographic view of Earth. Color tints distinguish arid regions from humid areas; lighter tints and shading depict mountainous areas. The transparent yellow paths crossing the oceans and continents mark the areas within which a total solar eclipse can be observed. Thin red lines in the centers of these paths denote where the longest local duration of totality can be enjoyed. A small red-rimmed yellow circle near the midpoint of each eclipse path shows the point of greatest eclipse.”

Useful! Pretty! Twelve inches. Comes with a clear plastic base.

I’m looking at you, 2024. Mazatlán!

Radio New Zealand interview with eclipse chaser RG Coleman

Follow this link to hear my very excited and hopeful (and in retrospect, sad) RNZ interview with First Up host Lydia Batham, recorded at sea on the M/S Paul Gauguin after leaving Pitcairn Island.

Tahiti

 

The entire South Pacific Cruise to Totality was bookended by several days in Tahiti. The Easter Island add-on to the eclipse cruise required a couple of back-and-forth stays at the InterContinental Tahiti Resort, and one long day at the Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort while waiting for my red eye flight back to Los Angeles.

I used my free days before and after life on the Paul Gauguin to sketch by the pools, shop at the market, and research and purchase a pearl necklace and a Tahitian ukulele.

I twice attempted to buy stamps and first day covers at the OPT (Office des Postes et Télécommunication) but, like Pitcairn and totality, it was another busted goal. (The philatelic window was closed during my first attempt, and soon after all OPT doors were locked due to a worker strike throughout the entire island chain. “The French are always on strike,” said a guide.)

Goodbye Polynesia and the M/S Paul Gauguin—I might be back. Maybe roll the dice again in December, 2020?

A footnote about cruising with the Paul Gauguin: Experienced travelers know that the worst part of the cruise experience is, by far, disembarkation. When that cruise is over, it is OVER. Guests are usually herded into hallways or into holding areas with hard plastic chairs and bare lightbulbs. The staff actively ignores them—a hurtful experience when just the day before everyone called you by name. Gone is the food, and the bar is closed, never to reopen. The deprivation and despair is rivaled only by the feeling of coming down from cocaine.

NOT SO on the M/S Paul Gauguin—or at least on this eclipse-at-sea charter. After checking out of our rooms and stashing our luggage by our stateroom doors, passengers came and went from shopping ashore like we owned the ship, or just lounged wherever we liked as the busy, cheery crew vacuumed the carpets and transitioned jobs. The Gauguines were still hanging around in their revealing island attire. Smiling bartenders were still available, making drinks. I joined some of my favorite people from Easter Island in the La Palette bar on deck 8 to drink mai tais and work crossword puzzles. The lunch buffet—served just before it was time to transfer to our luxurious day hotels and uncomfortable flights home—was as sumptuous as ever.

SLIDESHOW OF THE 2019 EASTER ISLAND/CRUISE TO TOTALITY EXPERIENCE

Photos:

Arrival in Tahiti

InterContinental Tahiti

Marché Papeete

Tahiti Pearl Beach Resort

Flight home